September 22, 2017

    At 7 a.m., the temperature was 27C and there was a forecast for 50% chance of rain. The sky was cloudy with white clouds. The first call to prayer for the Muslims was about 5:30 a.m., when some of the group were already awake. There was a mourning dove cooing in the tree beside our window before the wake-up call rang.

    This morning, the hotel guards swung open the hotel gates for the busses to take the group to Amber Fort which is a short 11 kilometers from Jaipur.  Raj, our guide, explained the kinds of defensive buildings from ancient times.

  CASTLE: primarily a military outpost in the middle of nowhere, the first place to defend against an attack. It is usually in a good defensive position, with guards at the entrances outside the walls.

  CITADEL: usually located on a hill with a flat top housing military commanders and administrators with guards at the entrances inside the walls.

  FORT: encompasses a large area occupied by the Maharajah (emperor), his family, advisors, military commanders, administrators and their families, as well as other people to keep the little city functioning, plus guards at the gates inside and outside the walls and they have only one entrance/exit that is closed at night.

  MAHAL: is a palace usually facing the local bazaar where the Maharajah lives.

    On the way, there were several close calls with other vehicles and motorcycles which were swerving in and around traffic; which is normal driving here in India.  We have a very skilled driver, who guided the bus through an ancient narrow gate, where the two- way road narrows to one lane, only a few feet wider than the bus. He just managed to beat an oncoming bus to the narrow opening – screeching brakes - and the other bus had to backup so we could proceed. We were taken to the bus parking lot where 4 x 4 jeeps took smaller groups, of four or five, up the final few kilometers to the ticket entrance to the Amber Fort inner complex.

  An interesting bus, which we have seen traveling about the past few days, is called a “Sleeper Bus”.  It is not a full double decker bus, but has an upper level accessed by numerous ladders like bunkbed ladders. The lower level seats people in regular seats, but the upper level has much fewer passengers.  They can stretch out to their full height and sleep just like in a bed. There is not even a meter clearance from the bed to the roof. There are windows from which to see and open since regular busses do not have air conditioning.

   Amber Palace is within the massive fort compound which is strategically located high above the valley. It is within Amber Fort, which is surrounded by red sandstone walls with sentry posts. The distant walls bear a slight resemblance to China’s Great Wall near Beijing.  The building was built using red sandstone and white sandstone. Its architecture reflects aspects of Hindu and Islamic design. It was commissioned by Emperor Akbar’s trusted general, Raja Maan Singh with construction starting in 1592. Akbar’s grandson, Shah Jahan, built the Taj Mahal mausoleum. This is a Hindu festival time and pilgrims are visiting the temple inside Amber Fort. It did not seem too crowded.

   Passing through a massive doorway, we saw the first huge courtyard, Jaleb Chowk, contained kiosks of people selling things and an area for the afternoon visitors to line up under a vast white tarp covering four or five lines of 100 or so. The Hall of Public Audience is open on three sides and is supported by two rows of ornamental pillars. This is where Akbar received people to resolve their disputes. The back wall is decorated with glass mosaics. Until 1956, the beauty of the original columns, with Islamic and Hindu designs, was hidden for over 300 years by plaster applied by a successor who did not like the decorating. Into the next courtyard, passing through Ganesh Pol, was a lush garden with fountains in the middle and the Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors). It was added by Maharaja Jai Singh in 1623 as a special place to receive guests. We were given 30 minutes to explore the palace on our own. Finding terraces with magnificent view of the lake within the palace grounds and the view of Jaipur. We were even shown some secret passages by workers.

    After returning in the 4 x 4 jeeps to the bus parking lot, we went to a rug workshop and retail store. On the road, we passed a group of about 40 pilgrims dressed in colourful festival clothes, with the women wearing richly coloured saris.  They were following the decorated “float” carrying a statue of their goddess. The people walked, two or three people wide, along the road taking up half a lane of the two lane road to Jaipur.  A little later on the journey back to Jaipur we passed two camels, each with a man leading them, as they ambled along on the very edge of the highway.  We passed Jal Mahal, the Water Palace near our hotel. It was built in the mid 18^th century using pink sandstone and then a dam was constructed creating Man Sagar Lake, so that water would surround the building. It served as Maharaja Madho Singh I’s duck hunting lodge.

     Next stop was the handicraft co-op where poor farmers are taught how to make saleable goods.  The first demonstration was an explanation of the ancient block printing of fabric, using wooden pattern blocks and vegetable and herb dyes.  Once the fabric pattern is complete, it is treated with a process that ends with a vinegar rinse to set the colours. The fabrics are guaranteed never to run.  It is the mass produced chemical dyes where the colour runs. Also taught is how to make wool, camel hair and silk carpets using the old hand knotting technique.  The farmers work in their village and whole villages join to be able to have a steady income.  Once one carpet is finished it is sent to Jaipur and materials for another carpet of the same pattern and size are sent back. The carpets are finished in Jaipur and sold.  We were given a tour of the different stages of the carpet making process once the weaving is complete.  We were shown how indestructible the hand-knotted carpets are. Requiring little maintenance since they repel stains and they can be hosed off annually in the back yard to clean them. Proceeding to the showroom, we sat on upholstered benches or chairs and were offered sugar cane rum, with or without cola, or bottled lemonade.  We also were served grilled cheese mini sandwiches and an Indian deep-fried snack. Then the three types of carpets were shown in different sizes and patterns. Wool carpets were $38 Canadian per square foot. Camel hair, made only once per year from the throat hair of 300 camels for an average size carpet costing $42 Canadian per square foot. The most valuable silk carpets were about $132 Canadian per square foot. It did not matter whether you bought a hall runner or a large 12 feet by 20 feet rug, the price per square foot was the same regardless of pattern or size.  Shipping and insurance would be covered by the Indian government, if you chose to ship your carpet. To exit, there were more showrooms with stone, wooden items and fabrics by the bolt, clothing, neckties, bowties, place mats, napkins, scarves and pashminas but there were not any aprons. Prices for scarves started at the equivalent of $14 Canadian. You could even order a garment to be made during the afternoon and delivered to the hotel. Friends who love fabrics would have enjoyed this place. With purchases made, we boarded the buses.  4,777 steps

    Then it was on to Elephant Village for rides in two person carriers atop the female elephants. The carriers swayed as the elephants walked a 15 minutes route, while enterprising hawkers tried to sell the passengers carved wooden elephants and camels for 2000 rupees or $40 Canadian. Other hawkers were selling glittery colourful turbans. There were about four hawkers following the eight elephants trying to sell their wares to the passengers.

   After a quick stop at the hotel, we continued on for the optional tour to the Pink City area of Jaipur.  The temperature at mid-afternoon was 32C and partly cloudy. As part of the organization of the visit of the British Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII, the Mahanaja of Jaipur decreed that the sandstone buildings would be painted pink.  Jaipur has been called the Pink City since then. We stopped at Jantar Mantar, the largest of five observatories founded by classical astronomer Sawai Jai Singh II built in 1747.  It is a very different observatory and extremely accurate.  This open-air courtyard contains the world’s largest sundial.  There are 14 gigantic local sandstone and marble instruments which were used for measuring time, predicting eclipses, tracking stars’ location as the earth orbits around the sun, ascertaining declinations of the planets.  There is even a section with Zodiac signs. It is located near the entrance to the City Palace Museum, which is still a royal residence. The City Palace, built between 1729 and 1732 AD by Sawai Jai Singh II, is open to the public.  He moved the region capital from Amer to Jaipur due to water problems and an increase in the population in Amer at Amber Fort. The City Palace had additions over the next 200 years. The former Guest House, built in 1899, holds paintings of earlier rulers as well as their military uniforms. Most private palaces were required to be open to the public by Prime Minister Indira Gandhi in the late 1970s.  Now they are either hotels or museums. King Edward VII invited Maharaja Madho Singh II to his 1902 coronation.  One of the preparations for the trip required 28,000 old silver coins to be melted down to create two 4,000 liter water urns, known as Gangajalis, which are on display at the palace. Madho Singh II, a devout Hindu, only drank Ganges River water when performing religious ceremonies. The Maharaja’s entourage travelled from Jaipur by train to Mumbai then by ship to England with the urns filled with Ganges River water.

   Back in the bus there was a final option to visit the local bazaar and afterwards take a tuk-tuk back to the hotel.  Only six of the 16 passengers opted for the experience. Tuk-tuks are the small three wheeled three passenger scooters that abound in Jaipur as a fast way to get around without driving in the city.  The cost was only 100 rupees, about $2 Canadian to return to the hotel.

   Once back at the hotel, we relaxed before the group dinner at 7 p.m.  Looking at my notes I saw that the famous 1799 City Palace sandstone extension, Hawa Mahal, also known as “Palace of Breeze” was not visited.  We were within a city street of it and didn’t realize it.

After another delicious Indian food buffet, we retired for the night. Total steps 8361

  Just a note:  In the Room Service menu there was descriptions of Indian dishes available.   The buffet of Indian food is:

   BREAKFAST:  Poori Bhaji – deep fried whole wheat bread with potato curry

Dosa – Plain butter, masala rice, and lentil crepes with spiced potato filling

Idli – steamed rice and lentil cakes

Kadhi Kachori – onion and lentil filled deep fried pastry served with a light yoghurt   based curry

Medu Vada – crisp fried lentil dumplings

Paratha – Northern India whole wheat bread filled with spiced potatoes or cottage cheese (which has the consistency of firm Tofu)

Poha – beaten rice mixed with onion and tomato

Upma – dry roasted semolina porridge

Uttapam – rice & lentil pancake with a topping of onion, tomato, coriander and chili

   LUNCH/DINNER appetizers:  Laal Maas – lamb braised with Mathania chillis and garlic

Dahi Ke Kebab – hung curd filed patties flavoured with cardamom

Hariy Ali AMcchi Tikki – fish marinated with fresh mint, ginger and fennel, cooked in tandoor

Kandhari Paneer Tikka – cottage cheese filled with beetroot, chilis, yoghurt, cooked in tandoor     

Khumb Aur MAkhane Ki Tikki – Pan fried galettes of lotus seeds & mushrooms, flavoured with star anise

Laal Maas – lamb braised with Mathania chillis and garlic

Maans Ke Sooley – lamb marinated with chili, coriander and cumin, cooked in tandoor     

Murgh Tikka – chicken flavoured with yoghurt & Kashmiri red chili, cooked in tandoor     

Murgh Malai Kebab – chicken marinated with cheese & cardamom, cooked in tandoor     

Palak Aur Til Ki Seekh – skewer of spinach & mint with sesame seeds, cooked in tandoor

Tandoori Chicken – marinated chicken cooked in tandoor

Tawa Macchi – pan fries fish flavoured with fennel

      LUNCH/DINNER: Achari Goshi – lamb cooked in pickling spices

Aloo Pyaz Ki Subzi – stir fried potato with onion, Mathania chili and coriander

Amritsari Byuna Paneer – stir fried tandoor roasted cottage cheese with onion, pepper and tomato

Baigan Bharta – Char grilled eggplant cooked with onion and tomato

Bhindi Khatta Pyaz – okra cooked with pickled onion

Butter Chicken – chicken in a fenugreek flavoured tomato gravy

Goan Fish Curry – fish cooked with fresh coconut, red chili and tamarind

Gosht Roganjosh – lamb brised with brown onion, Kashmiri chili and fennel

Lamb Pepper Fry – stir fried lamb with fresh ginger and black pepper

Makai Methi Palak – fresh spinach leaves, fenugreek and corn with Indian spices

Meen Moilee – Fish simmered in coconut curry tempered with mustard, curry leaves and ginger

Palak Aur Anjeer Ke Kofte – spinach & fig dumplings in tomato & cashew nut gravy

Paneer Makhani - cottage cheese in rich tomato sauce and fenugreek gravy

Paneer Nilgiri Korma - cottage cheese cooked on “dum” with fresh mint and green coriander

SubzDeewani Handi – mélange of vegetables cooked on “dum” with green cardamom and mace

Tariwala Murgh – home style chicken curry